How can you tell the difference? Well, a ³spot weld² is just what it sounds like: the two parts are joined at a single spot, instead of across the whole area where they touch. The ³spot weld² is good enough to get the product out of the factory and onto the showroom floor, but (obviously) it doesn¹t have the staying power of a ³full weld²-- common sense, no?

     For the parts that are not joined by welds, look for bolts as opposed to ³slip in² joints. experience has shown that ³slip in² joints allow too much play between the parts, and that over time that play leads to metal fatigue and breakage.

P.S. There is a structural issue concerning metal beds that isn¹t a matter of joints. And, unfortunately, the Shove and Shake Test can¹t shed much light on it either. That issue is the issue of the thickness of the steel that the bed parts are made of. Remember, most metal bed parts are hollow, they are tubes. And so you can¹t tell just by looking at their outsides how much metal (as opposed to air) is underneath the paint. But if the walls of the tubes are thick, that¹s good, if they¹re thin, that¹s VERY BAD!

     So how can you know if the metal is ³thick² or ³thin²? Well, you have to ask. And here¹s a little tip: if the person you¹re talking to answers by referring to the guage of the steel, remember that the lower the guage the thicker the steel-- that¹s right, fourteen guage steel is actually thicker (and therefore better) than sixteen guage steel-- go figure! And, as always, you have to feel pretty confident that what the guy is telling you is true, a feeling that will come from many things-- including whether his company backs its products with written warrantees.